Olympic Orchids - Mardi Gras (perfume review)

As promised (to Vanessa in comments), my review of Olympic Orchids Mardi Gras perfume is finally ready. Although I wouldn't consider Mardi Gras particularly complex or challenging on the whole, it is definitely a perfume that pushes my personal boundaries kaos distro, as I tend to like light, easy to wear scents that one might generally associate with spring and summer. Nothing too sweet, loud, screechy, raunchy, dark.. etc. I love the baby food of the perfume world.

Fortunately I was lucky enough to win some Mardi Gras and expand my comfort zone. Although this is a pretty linear scent with little in the way of evolution, it's definitely an interesting one. It's fruitily sweet, warm and just a touch skanky - in the best post-coital kind of way.

While most scents garner associations or ideas, very few paint vivid pictures for me. Mardi Gras, however, is one of those special few. When I wear it, I feel immediately transported to another world - a mysteriously dark and sensual one. Perhaps the name helps. :)

I get a dimly lit room in the French Quarter, adorned with opulent crystal chandeliers and loveseats upholstered in silky dark velvets, tinged with mustiness. The room is humid, saturated with the heat of intertwined lovers and the thick sultry air is lightly sweetened by a veil of fruity incense. And beignets. Definitely some beignets.

photo from French Quarter Guest Houses

The first thing I notice when I apply Mardi Gras is the orange blossom. The very first seconds have a spicy edge, but that kick softens quickly into a fluffily and plushly sweet orange blossom that's reminiscent of fruit loops and powdered sugar. On the side there's a touch of honey. Normally honey is a note that I don't deal well with in perfume (it typically induces feelings of nausea), but in Mardi Gras the syrupy honey blends so seamlessly into the fruity sweetness that I actually don't mind it. In fact, more than don't mind it, I rather like it - and that's a first. 

Also to note, despite describing the sweetness with images of fruit loops and powdered sugar, Mardi Gras isn't a particularly light fragrance. It carries a certain heft to it, like the weight of thick, humid grosir kaos distro summer air.

After a short while the initial burst of fruit loop sweetness fades a bit, and the creamier vanilla and benzoin heart comes out to play. While still sweet, the vanilla and benzoin add a darkness to the composition, luring us out of kiddy land and into the adult realms. Finally the musk emerges, wrapping the fragrance in the warmth of human skin - without ever being overbearing or reeking of B.O. (I know some people appreciate the BO stink factor in their fragrances, but that is a taste I personally have yet to acquire!)

Mardi Gras is a sweet, gourmandy lover, but not a promiscuous one. If you like a heavy dose of skanky musk, I think Mardi Gras may fall short of your desires. But if you want a fairly safe and wearable scent that will still get the juices of your imagination flowing, Mardi Gras may be a good fit.

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My rating of Mardi Gras: 3.75

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  - X -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent          Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Mardi Gras as described by the Olympic Orchids website:

Notes:  Orange blossom, neroli, cistus, benzoin, vanilla, civet, special musk blend

Perfumer: Ellen Covey

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Have you tried Mardi Gras? What are some of your favorite Olympic Orchids scents?

Juliette has a gun - Gentlewoman (perfume review + GIVEAWAY!)

Helllllloooo everyone! It has been forever and a day (again) - and I apologize.  I have really missed this blog, but home renovation work has consumed my life for the past month or so. We're still not done (are we ever??), but things are coming along grosir kaos distro and I'm excited to post about the changes over on rustyfarmhouse. But today - today I focus on perfume!  (and I hope to start posting slightly more regularly again too.)  :)

Up until about a month ago, somehow in my perfume journey I had managed to try nothing from the house Juliette has a gun. Not for lack of interest, however, just circumstances. Then suddenly I won a decant of Moondance from the lovely lovely folks at AustralianPerfumeJunkies, and then I somehow also won a sample of Gentlewoman from APJ. A couple days after that I was surprised with a promotional kaos distro sample of Gentlewoman as well. It seems my JHAG luck has turned!

Gentlewoman is the latest release from Juliette has a gun, a feminine take on the classic eau de cologne. Perfumer Romano Ricci characterizes Gentlewoman as modern, daring and free.

When I wear Gentlewoman, it opens with crisp citrus that manages to be neither too sweet nor too bitter. It feels like your fingers doused in the juices and oils of freshly peeled oranges and limes. Within moments the bright citrus notes fade into the flowy white caresses of the orange blossom. The orange blossom is soft, gentle, wispy and soapy. I can't help but think of bright, slightly overgrown sun-soaked country fields adorned grosir tas import with wavy white bedsheets hanging on expansive clothing lines. (If I'm perfectly honest, I also picture Julie Andrews twirling about and singing that the hills are alive with the sound of music...). It's really so very pretty.

The soapy orange blossom gives way to the lavender, which begins as subtle, clean and slightly masculine. I should admit that on the whole I'm not a big fan of lavender. Lavender almost always feels heavy and distinctively masculine to me. This isn't necessarily a bad thing though, and one might expect an eau de cologne to have masculine touches - even a feminine one. 

The lavender grows in intensity, becoming stronger and sadly a bit too sharp for me. Gentlewoman also becomes a bit powdery and artificial at this point, making the soft cotton sheets feel more like a dryer sheet right under my nose. Fortunately, this stronger lavender phase passes and the lavender eventually retreats into the cozy world of musk. On me, the musk in Gentlewoman feels pristinely clean - keeping Gentlewoman squarely in the work and black-tie appropriate arena. The clean laundry musk also feels a bit artificial. It is here that I wish Gentlewoman was a bit more "daring." I think a slightly more animalic musk to offset the stoic and artificial-feeling cleanliness of the lavender would be amazing.

Overall, I think JHAG did well with the concept of a feminine eau de cologne. It's a simple but pleasant fragrance. I was surprised by how much I loved the opening of Gentlewoman. The sparkling citrus of the opening is perfectly blended for my tastes and I actually really enjoy the gentle soapy character of the grosiraksesorisfashion.com orange blossom heart. Unfortunately the drydown wasn't a great fit for me, perhaps because I simply don't care much for lavender and I prefer a slightly skankier musk. But I'd dance around with Julie Andrews in the opening for hours if I could!

If you like soapy orange blossom, Gentlewoman could be a winner for you - but it may not be the best fit if you dislike soapy florals and clean musks.

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My rating of Gentlewoman: 3.5

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  - X -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent          Great        Olfactory Elation    

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Gentlewoman as described by Juliette has a gun:

Family:  Citrus Woody Musky

Top Notes: Neroli Essence, Bitter Orange Petitgrain Essence, Calabrian Bergamot Essence (Capua)

Heart Notes: Almond Essence, Coumarin, Orange Blossom Absolute, Lavender Essence 

Base Notes: Ambroxan, Musks (Muscenone and Ambretolide)

Perfumer: Romano Ricci

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A Scent Life's FIRST GIVEAWAY!
Since I was lucky enough to both win a sample and receive a promotional sample of Gentlewoman, I'd be delighted to share the wealth and give away my promotional sample. 

Who is eligible?
Readers worldwide are eligible, though I cannot guarantee it's safe arrival for my non-US friends or replace it if something goes awry.

How do I win?  (updated)
Just leave a comment telling me about why you'd like to try Gentlewoman and if you have any favorite JHAG scents that I should try.  The draw will remain open until June 1st. The winner will have several days to claim their prize, so don't forget to check if you've won!

*Although I received a promotional sample of Gentlewoman, all opinions are my own and honest. 

Dame Perfumery Scottsdale - Black Flower Mexican Vanilla (perfume review)

Heeeeellllllllllloooooooooo! Just in case you've forgotten, my name is Sun and I like perfume :)

It's been forever, and I am so sad that it has taken so long to get another post up. Between some new in-progress DIY home renovations (they'll eventually get published at rustyfarmhouse), Clint's awful work schedule and my wonderful baby that hates sleeping (unless I'm lying next to him, that is), I've barely had time to try any new perfumes attentively, let alone write about them.

But, I wanted to get a review of this one in before the spring fully hits and this recent wave of cooler weather has been a perfect time to wear Black Flower Mexican Vanilla (hereafter referred to as BFMV) again.

photo from Dame Perfumery Scottsdale,
artistry by Jeffrey Dame's father V. Dave Dame.

While there's probably hundreds of vanilla scents I've yet to try - so far BFMV is one of my favorites. It's a little bit foody without being sickly sweet or reminiscent of cake, cookies, frosting or ice cream. Ultimately it's vanilla - all grown up.

The opening is big and plush, like a cumulous cloud of dark, rich vanilla. Some slightly sharp citrus elements (I smell mostly grapefruit) cut through the cloud like bolts of lightning, but they're wrapped in the spicy warmth of nutmeg which keeps them from being overwhelming and gives BFMV a really unique character.

The strength of the vanilla tones down a bit in the heart, and this provides room for the florals to peek through. They're not strong and I personally couldn't identify the floral notes as gardenia and jasmine, but they are lovely. If I *really* sniff hard, there's a tiny bit of soapiness for me. The florals are slowly replaced by sandalwood in the early dry down, which makes the composition begin to feel lighter, like replacing a thick wool scarf with a cashmere scarf. 

Later in the drydown there's a lightly chewy, black licorice-y note. Usually I hate black licorice, but here it seems to just add texture to the vanilla rather than scent or overpower it, so I don't mind. The black licorice note reminds me a little bit of Un Bois Vanille, but BFMV isn't nearly as sweet.

And then there's the super late drydown. This part of BFMV is completely awesome in it's own right. Though the earlier stages of BFMV aren't super gourmandy on me, the late drydown smells like hot cocoa and s'mores. A touch of cocoa, a touch of vanilla, a little powdery graham cracker... Yum. It's the first time BFMV presents as sweet - but not overly so. I probably couldn't handle a strong overtly s'more from-the-get-go scent, but in the soft drydown, it's perfect. And it is enjoyable for a long time because the longevity of BFMV is really great - it lasts at least 24 hours on my skin. 

BFMV has usurped Eau Duelle to land in my top 3 favorite vanilla scents (along with Vanille Galante and Orchidee Vanille). Some may be able to wear BFMV year round, however vanilla (in general) feels a little heavy for me when the temps are up. As such, I think Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is especially wonderful on chilly fall/winter days. 

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My rating of Black Flower Mexican Vanilla: 4

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Black Flower Mexican Vanilla as described by the Dame Perfumery website:  "The composition is vanilla absolute with touches of lemon, grapefruit, caramel, nutmeg, gardenia, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, musk and tonka - but the ingredient list is less important than the final blend. " 

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Have you tried Black Flower Mexican Vanilla or any other Dame Perfumery scents?


*sample of BFMV originally obtained through Olfactif, but I also received a sampler set from the perfumer himself, Jeffrey Dame. Like all of my reviews, the review of BFMV was objective and unbiased, however I feel compelled to mention how sweet and generous Jeffrey is. His passion is truly to share perfume with the world. Very very reasonably priced samples and bottles are available at his website, and he has a free postcard sample program as well.

Ava Luxe - Mousse de Chine (perfume review)

The more perfumes I try, the more I realize how many I haven't tried! I have been rather unorganized in my sampling since delving into the perfume world - following individual tangents (such as particular notes or houses) or simply going gaga over the rhetoric surrounding new releases. 

But there's a huge world of perfumes out there and to be quite frank, I am missing whole families of them in my testing so far! For example, chypres. I had never tried a chypre on skin (and have only sniffed a few at most). In fact, to really highlight my ignorance - I can't even tell you what the famous, iconic chypres are. Clearly I have some reading ahead of me. (If I get any credit at all for this, I do know that Hiram Green's release Shangri La is a peach chypre, and I'd like to try it). 

So, in an effort to rectify my chypre-virgin nose, I raided my sample box and decided to give the Ava Luxe chypre Mousse de Chine a try.   

The opening of Mousse de Chine offers about 10 seconds of crisp and loud citrus, then dives straight into sharp lavender and powder. Very shortly thereafter, the lavender powder becomes quieter and is joined by the earthy fern and moss. 

mossy, weedy grass

These greens are slightly herbal and pungent - and lean a touch masculine to me. For some reason, the green notes in Mousse de Chine never feel warm or inviting, instead remaining cool and stoic. This is a little unsettling for me. I guess I like warmth.

moss covered concrete stones

About 20 minutes in, the citrus notes seem to reappear and waft about me - though I don't necessarily smell them when I sniff my wrist. They just float around for a bit.

About an hour in, the lavender fades and the powder remains. The ambergris makes a slightly salty appearance, but it's not particularly loud and I mostly get powder with just a touch of something peppery.

I had to try (and re-apply) Mousse de Chine several times to even get this characterization of it, and it generally became barely noticeable by the 2 hour mark (though it's nearly imperceptible scent remained on my wrist much longer). 

To be fair, I received the sample I tested as a freebie from another lovely perfumista, so I can't be sure if it was very fresh or if time has compromised the sample at all.

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My rating of Mousse de Chine: 2

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

This is the first chypre I've ever tried, so honestly I have no idea how it compares to other chypres. I'm not a big lavender fan though, so Mousse de Chine was not for me.

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Mousse de Chine as described by the Ava Luxe perfume website:

Family: Chypre

Top Notes: bergamot, lime

Middle Notes: fern, lavender, amber, spanish moss, oakmoss

Base Notes: labdanum, musk, ambergris

Perfumer: Serena Ava Franco

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Have you tried Mousse de Chine? What are some of your favorite chypres?

The Different Company - Tokyo Bloom (perfume review)

Hello everyone!

It has been a lot longer than I had hoped since my last post. I brought a hoard of samples with me on my trip to my parents' house thinking I'd have ample time to sample and review lots of fragrances with my parents around to entertain the nugget. Haha, I'm so silly... 

It took a long time just to recover from the 2-flight, 14 hour trip cross country. We finally got to bed at 1:30 am PST (which felt like 4:30 am EST to us), just to have Walden wake up less than 3 hours later - obviously he didn't take note of the time change. In the following couple of days, Clint had to fly off for a business trip and Walden began cutting 3 (or 4?!) new teeth, leaving him fussier and clingier to me than he's ever been. He's finally settled down and is allowing my parents to hang out with him, and likewise I've finally emerged from the deep, hazy fog of fatigue that hung over me for several days.

And, like my fatigue, the rain has lifted and it feels like spring in the beautiful Pacific Northwest. I've escaped the harsh winter of Maryland for the lovely weather of Washington. It rained for a couple of days, but the last couple of days have been gorgeous. Temps are in the low 50's, the sun is shining, Mt. Rainier is out in all of her glory, and everything is beginning to bloom - especially in my parents' yard (as seen below). As such, The Different Company's Tokyo Bloom was a perfect scent to bring on my trip.

the magnolia tree

hyacinth buds

the camelias blooming

cherry blossoms

I don't have the right vocabulary to describe Tokyo Bloom. It's a beautiful floral. I really really love the first few minutes. The opening is fresh and vibrant, dewy and sheer - but not so soft that you don't notice it. It's the sunshine of summer, the crisp cool air of spring. It's green and a touch grassy. There's a soft powder that tickles the nose like pollen. Without seeing the notes I couldn't tell you off the top of my head what kind of flowers are in Tokyo Bloom. I remember seeing comments from others about dandelions and maybe that's true (we'll find out below!). These flowers do possess a childlike innocence and simplicity to them, and dandelions are a flower I inherently associate with childhood (as well as one of my favorite songs from my high school (ska) days - 'Dandelions' by Five Iron Frenzy - which is made even more meaningful by my entrance into the world of motherhood. It's really sweet and definitely worth a listen (even if you're not a ska person). Song w/lyrics here).

I am positive that there is no dearth of photorealistic floral scents on the market, but the thing that I love about the opening of Tokyo Bloom is that is possesses something that I don't experience that often - it really feels alive to me. And I love that. I'd reapply to experience the opening again and again.

Tokyo Bloom isn't particularly complex, and after the vibrancy of the opening, the heart and drydown are a bit of a let down. It loses the life-like energy that pulses through the opening. While it remains a sheer and pretty floral, there are moments where it gets slightly sharp and starts to smell a touch artificial. It fades fairly quickly, and is no sillage monster. (It's listed on their website under the l'esprit cologne collection.) While I won't spring for a full bottle, I'll happily use my Olfactif sample whenever I need an uplifting touch of spring. I could also see it being lovely as a linen spray (although it's probably a bit expensive for that).

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My rating of Tokyo Bloom: 3.5

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  - X -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent          Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Tokyo Bloom as described by the The Different Company website:

Family: Aromatic - Citrus 

Top Notes: basil, dandelion, black currant

Middle Notes: jasmine, cyclamen petals

Base Notes: gaiac wood, musk, amber

Perfumer: Emilie Copperman

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Have you tried Tokyo Bloom or any other fragrances from The Different Company?

Serge Lutens - Daim Blond (perfume review)

I haven't tried many leathers but became obsessed with the idea of finding a good one, which led me to my desire to try Daim Blond (among other things).  According to Aedes, Daim Blond was "Inspired by suede so fine, so soft, so barely perceptible to the touch, like skin on skin, an aura and sensation that intertwine to become one and the same."   Ooh, this sounds mysterious and sexy and warm and cozy...

Wait a second, where's the soft nude suede?? On me, Serge Lutens' Daim Blond opens up strongly with medicinal pencil shavings - camphor, band-aids, rubber, wood. It's cool but dry. Although it's not markedly strong, it feels rough.

photo from acevola.blogspot.com

I know some people enjoy a good medicinal note, but honestly to me, it just smells like hospitals, which isn't particularly pleasant. I can imagine situations where a medicinal touch could enhance other stronger, more prominent notes, but that is just not the case in Daim Blond.

As far as I can tell, there are no other notes.  After a few minutes even the pencil shavings fade away, leaving just camphor and rubber band-aids.  Sadly they're not even awesome band-aids like these:

found on www.geekalerts.com

or

available at mcphee.com

Hehe, okay, I lied. There eventually are other notes. About 30 minutes in, it becomes evident that the 'medicinal' note I was smelling was probably somehow the iris and not the ubiquitous 'oud'. The medicinal aspect softens, and the iris becomes far more powdery and recognizably iris-y. This is definitely a marked improvement over the opening, but maybe not the best fit for me as I'm still on the fence about how I feel about iris. (So far the only iris perfume I've really liked is Atelier's Silver Iris.) And as powdery as it is, the perfume starts to feel kind of sharp and harsh to my nose about an hour in.

From this point on, the iris gets softer (while retaining it's bit of sharpness) and there's just a touch of musk, but that's about it. It really loses strength at the 2 hour mark, and feels just like a light veil of powder. The late drydown is pleasant enough I guess.

One thing Daim Blond *does* have going for it is the lack of cumin.  :)

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My rating of Daim Blond: 2 

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

In short, there is basically nothing about Daim Blond that is my cup of tea.

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Daim Blond as described by the Aedes website:

Family: Spice/Leather

Top Notes: Iris

Middle Notes: Apricot, Cardamom, Hawthorne

Base Notes: Heliotrope, Musk

Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake

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Have you tried Daim Blond? What are some of your favorite suede and leather scents?

A Lab on Fire - What We Do in Paris is Secret (perfume review) + a kitty story.

I hope everyone had a lovely Valentine's Day! Mine was a little rough for a couple of kitty-related reasons, but the biggest one was related to Puff (the other I'll save for another post someday). 

Puff, my purely indoor kitty, stealthily escaped the house (unbeknownst to us) on one of our 2 trips out, and remained missing for at least 5 or 6 hours, if not more. In fact, we only realized he was gone because we bought a new cat condo and he didn't come out when we were rounding the kitties up to show them. After searching the house up and down for an hour or two we conceded to the idea that he must have gotten out. We searched the yard, drove around the neighborhood, posted signs, and visited the neighbors with no luck. All the while I watched the snow fall. I fretted, wondering how I was going to see a white cat in the snow, and worried about the falling temperatures - yesterday's low was supposed to be 5 and the wind has been howling all winter. (To be fair, Puff is built like an arctic kitty - covered in fur with tufted paws, so I was thankful for that.) Then I watched it get dark, wondering how I would see Puff in the dark. Every 20 minutes or so I went around to all of our doors and stepped out, calling out for Puff and shaking a treat bag, hoping he would come out. Finally, on my rounds around 7:30pm, I heard the faintest sound and I wasn't sure if it was a kitty or the children playing in the snow around the neighborhood but repeated callings revealed the tiniest of muffled meows, and I searched around the back deck where I found Puff huddled between storage baskets and the house siding. He wasn't there earlier, so I guess perhaps he had heard me calling and found his way back. Fortunately, he was found - a little dirty and hungry but safe and in my arms. So, today's review is dedicated to my sweet sweet Puff! 

I've been wanting to try A Lab on Fire's What We Do in Paris is Secret since early in my perfuming days (which admittedly was only a five or so months ago). I think I was mostly drawn to it by the name. I've never been to Paris, and even if I had, I doubt I would be privy to the exclusive or secretive happenings that I imagine when I hear this name. I had no idea what to expect, but I honestly didn't expect a sweet gourmand. I also didn't expect to be trying SO MANY gourmands. I guess that's what I get for not looking at the notes!

When I first applied What We Do in Paris is Secret, I was struck by how familiar it smells. Soooooo very familiar! It reminds me of something that was popular and prevalent back when I was in junior or senior high school or so, but unfortunately I can't place it.  CK in2u? Hugo Boss? Hugo Boss Deep Red?  Whatever Jean Paul Gaultier I had?  GAH it's so frustrating! If anyone can enlighten me, I'd be ever so appreciative...

The very beginning of What We Do in Paris is Secret feels really plush but light, like a large dollop of thick whipped cream or vanilla mousse. Or a Puff.

fluffy Puff - a sweet gourmand kitty if there ever was one!
p.s. he has lost weight since I transitioned the kitties to a raw diet, so he's actually quite svelte now.

It's voluminous, it's honeyed, and it has the presence of a whole table of desserts. And then, for a few brief moments the thick gourmand recedes like an ocean wave, unveiling a light and delicate almond that is so singular and crystalline and pure it feels like a ray of sunshine bursting through the clouds. Then the gourmand cloud returns, bringing with it a tinge of sharpness. For some reason, this sharpness makes What We Do in Paris is Secret feel a bit masculine to me. (It's also what makes it smell so darn familiar...)

The drydown is a deep vanilla with a touch of salt, a speck of sharpness and a tinge of rubber. It reminds me a bit of the drydown of Havana Vanille/Vanille Absolument. It's warm and inviting, and I could see What We Do in Paris is Secret being another winter time winner.

Although I didn't love this one the first time I wore it, it has grown on me a bit with repeated wearings. It's a sweet gourmand that I can actually handle (a stark contrast to Or du Serail, for instance). I especially love the almond note - it reminds me a lot of L'Occitane Almond Supple Skin Oil, which also smells lovely. 

Overall, What We Do in Paris is Secret is a pleasantly rich gourmand, but for me it skews a bit too masculine and is still a touch sweet for my tastes. Perhaps its the honey. Maybe I'm just not a big fan of honey as a note... Nonetheless, if you're a fan of honey and vanilla and sweet gourmands, this could be a home run for you!

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Clint's 3: vanilla, cream, light

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My rating of What We Do in Paris is Secret: 3 

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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What We Do in Paris is Secret as described by the A Lab on Fire website:

Family: Gourmand, Oriental

Top Notes: bergamot, honey, lychee

Middle Notes: turkish rose essence, vanilla, heliotrope

Base Notes: tonka bean, tolu, sandalwood, ambergris

Perfumer: Dominique Ropion

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Have you tried What We Do in Paris is Secret?  Do you have a favorite A Lab on Fire scent, or a favorite gourmand?