Olympic Orchids - Mardi Gras (perfume review)

As promised (to Vanessa in comments), my review of Olympic Orchids Mardi Gras perfume is finally ready. Although I wouldn't consider Mardi Gras particularly complex or challenging on the whole, it is definitely a perfume that pushes my personal boundaries kaos distro, as I tend to like light, easy to wear scents that one might generally associate with spring and summer. Nothing too sweet, loud, screechy, raunchy, dark.. etc. I love the baby food of the perfume world.

Fortunately I was lucky enough to win some Mardi Gras and expand my comfort zone. Although this is a pretty linear scent with little in the way of evolution, it's definitely an interesting one. It's fruitily sweet, warm and just a touch skanky - in the best post-coital kind of way.

While most scents garner associations or ideas, very few paint vivid pictures for me. Mardi Gras, however, is one of those special few. When I wear it, I feel immediately transported to another world - a mysteriously dark and sensual one. Perhaps the name helps. :)

I get a dimly lit room in the French Quarter, adorned with opulent crystal chandeliers and loveseats upholstered in silky dark velvets, tinged with mustiness. The room is humid, saturated with the heat of intertwined lovers and the thick sultry air is lightly sweetened by a veil of fruity incense. And beignets. Definitely some beignets.

photo from French Quarter Guest Houses

The first thing I notice when I apply Mardi Gras is the orange blossom. The very first seconds have a spicy edge, but that kick softens quickly into a fluffily and plushly sweet orange blossom that's reminiscent of fruit loops and powdered sugar. On the side there's a touch of honey. Normally honey is a note that I don't deal well with in perfume (it typically induces feelings of nausea), but in Mardi Gras the syrupy honey blends so seamlessly into the fruity sweetness that I actually don't mind it. In fact, more than don't mind it, I rather like it - and that's a first. 

Also to note, despite describing the sweetness with images of fruit loops and powdered sugar, Mardi Gras isn't a particularly light fragrance. It carries a certain heft to it, like the weight of thick, humid grosir kaos distro summer air.

After a short while the initial burst of fruit loop sweetness fades a bit, and the creamier vanilla and benzoin heart comes out to play. While still sweet, the vanilla and benzoin add a darkness to the composition, luring us out of kiddy land and into the adult realms. Finally the musk emerges, wrapping the fragrance in the warmth of human skin - without ever being overbearing or reeking of B.O. (I know some people appreciate the BO stink factor in their fragrances, but that is a taste I personally have yet to acquire!)

Mardi Gras is a sweet, gourmandy lover, but not a promiscuous one. If you like a heavy dose of skanky musk, I think Mardi Gras may fall short of your desires. But if you want a fairly safe and wearable scent that will still get the juices of your imagination flowing, Mardi Gras may be a good fit.

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My rating of Mardi Gras: 3.75

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   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent          Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Mardi Gras as described by the Olympic Orchids website:

Notes:  Orange blossom, neroli, cistus, benzoin, vanilla, civet, special musk blend

Perfumer: Ellen Covey

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Have you tried Mardi Gras? What are some of your favorite Olympic Orchids scents?

Juliette has a gun - Gentlewoman (perfume review + GIVEAWAY!)

Helllllloooo everyone! It has been forever and a day (again) - and I apologize.  I have really missed this blog, but home renovation work has consumed my life for the past month or so. We're still not done (are we ever??), but things are coming along grosir kaos distro and I'm excited to post about the changes over on rustyfarmhouse. But today - today I focus on perfume!  (and I hope to start posting slightly more regularly again too.)  :)

Up until about a month ago, somehow in my perfume journey I had managed to try nothing from the house Juliette has a gun. Not for lack of interest, however, just circumstances. Then suddenly I won a decant of Moondance from the lovely lovely folks at AustralianPerfumeJunkies, and then I somehow also won a sample of Gentlewoman from APJ. A couple days after that I was surprised with a promotional kaos distro sample of Gentlewoman as well. It seems my JHAG luck has turned!

Gentlewoman is the latest release from Juliette has a gun, a feminine take on the classic eau de cologne. Perfumer Romano Ricci characterizes Gentlewoman as modern, daring and free.

When I wear Gentlewoman, it opens with crisp citrus that manages to be neither too sweet nor too bitter. It feels like your fingers doused in the juices and oils of freshly peeled oranges and limes. Within moments the bright citrus notes fade into the flowy white caresses of the orange blossom. The orange blossom is soft, gentle, wispy and soapy. I can't help but think of bright, slightly overgrown sun-soaked country fields adorned grosir tas import with wavy white bedsheets hanging on expansive clothing lines. (If I'm perfectly honest, I also picture Julie Andrews twirling about and singing that the hills are alive with the sound of music...). It's really so very pretty.

The soapy orange blossom gives way to the lavender, which begins as subtle, clean and slightly masculine. I should admit that on the whole I'm not a big fan of lavender. Lavender almost always feels heavy and distinctively masculine to me. This isn't necessarily a bad thing though, and one might expect an eau de cologne to have masculine touches - even a feminine one. 

The lavender grows in intensity, becoming stronger and sadly a bit too sharp for me. Gentlewoman also becomes a bit powdery and artificial at this point, making the soft cotton sheets feel more like a dryer sheet right under my nose. Fortunately, this stronger lavender phase passes and the lavender eventually retreats into the cozy world of musk. On me, the musk in Gentlewoman feels pristinely clean - keeping Gentlewoman squarely in the work and black-tie appropriate arena. The clean laundry musk also feels a bit artificial. It is here that I wish Gentlewoman was a bit more "daring." I think a slightly more animalic musk to offset the stoic and artificial-feeling cleanliness of the lavender would be amazing.

Overall, I think JHAG did well with the concept of a feminine eau de cologne. It's a simple but pleasant fragrance. I was surprised by how much I loved the opening of Gentlewoman. The sparkling citrus of the opening is perfectly blended for my tastes and I actually really enjoy the gentle soapy character of the grosiraksesorisfashion.com orange blossom heart. Unfortunately the drydown wasn't a great fit for me, perhaps because I simply don't care much for lavender and I prefer a slightly skankier musk. But I'd dance around with Julie Andrews in the opening for hours if I could!

If you like soapy orange blossom, Gentlewoman could be a winner for you - but it may not be the best fit if you dislike soapy florals and clean musks.

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My rating of Gentlewoman: 3.5

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   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent          Great        Olfactory Elation    

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Gentlewoman as described by Juliette has a gun:

Family:  Citrus Woody Musky

Top Notes: Neroli Essence, Bitter Orange Petitgrain Essence, Calabrian Bergamot Essence (Capua)

Heart Notes: Almond Essence, Coumarin, Orange Blossom Absolute, Lavender Essence 

Base Notes: Ambroxan, Musks (Muscenone and Ambretolide)

Perfumer: Romano Ricci

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A Scent Life's FIRST GIVEAWAY!
Since I was lucky enough to both win a sample and receive a promotional sample of Gentlewoman, I'd be delighted to share the wealth and give away my promotional sample. 

Who is eligible?
Readers worldwide are eligible, though I cannot guarantee it's safe arrival for my non-US friends or replace it if something goes awry.

How do I win?  (updated)
Just leave a comment telling me about why you'd like to try Gentlewoman and if you have any favorite JHAG scents that I should try.  The draw will remain open until June 1st. The winner will have several days to claim their prize, so don't forget to check if you've won!

*Although I received a promotional sample of Gentlewoman, all opinions are my own and honest. 

Serge Lutens - Santal Majuscule & Fleurs d'Oranger (perfume review)

Santal Majuscule

The opening seconds of Santal Majuscule on my skin is an exceptionally lovely, lightly floral scent. But after just a few seconds, it morphs into a combination of bitterness and burnt butter. A mild element of creaminess sneaks in, moderating the bitterness and Santal Majuscule almost sweetens up to a creme brulee, but then the sharp wood note takes over.

In a short time, the wood note loses the creaminess and begins to feel drier. About 10 minutes in I get something slightly medicinal, and I'm not really sure what it is. This fades slightly, but Santal Majuscule never really progresses beyond this for me.  It stays slightly medicinal, dry and woody, and has a dark brown aura.

On my skin, Santal Majuscule feel a bit raw and unfinished, where I would hope for a slightly rounder and creamier feel. I'm really confused by the notes, because I get no rose or chocolate. It must be a chemistry thing.

Family: Wood

Top Notes: Rose

Middle Notes: Tonka bean, Rosewood

Base Notes: Sandalwood, Cocoa

Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake

* * * * * * * * *

Fleurs d'Oranger

Upon first application, Fleurs d'Oranger presents as a soft and slightly powdery orange blossom. To me, the opening feels like a delicate cloud - beautifully feminine and lovely. Within a couple of minutes, the scent becomes a little spicy and peppery which is pleasantly reminiscent of the spicy and sweet orange blossom of L'Artisan Parfumeur's Seville a l'Aube. 

Unfortunately, just after the pepper the familiar tang of cumin makes it's entrance. To be fair, this is no Bigarade Concentree. On the whole, the cumin isn't *terribly* strong but it does register as body odor on my skin, and regrettably it detracts from the whole experience for me. 

My son Walden, clearly confused and upset that cumin is used in perfumery...

After 15 minutes or so, Fleurs d'Oranger introduces a combination of creamy white florals. They lend a plushness to the scent and their weight works well to balance the sweetness of the orange blossom and the spice of the cumin. 

Fleurs d'Oranger doesn't strike me as a particularly complex scent, with few evolutions before the drydown. Nonetheless, it is a pleasant, easy to wear, happy perfume. I think I'd like it a lot if it didn't possess the pervasive undercurrent of BO from the cumin. 

Of note, I've read that older versions of Fleurs d'Oranger contain more cumin than the more recent formulations.  I received my sample in a swap, so I'm not sure if the sample I tested from was of the older or newer variety.

Family: Floral

Top Notes: Orange Blossom, Neroli

Middle Notes: Tuberose, Jasmine

Base Notes: Hibiscus, Cumin, Musk

Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake

* * * * * * * * *

My rating of Santal Majuscule and Fleurs d'Oranger: 2 

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   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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So far I have only tried a few Serge Lutens fragrances, but none have really dazzled me. I'm not sure if it's a body chemistry thing, my unsophisticated perfume tastes or if I'm just not trying the right ones. 

What are your thoughts on Santal Majuscule and/or Fleurs d'Oranger? And, if you're a Serge Lutens fan, what are some of your favorites? I'd love some recommendations for others to try!

Atelier Cologne - Oolang Infini (perfume review)

There is little better than a lovely cup of hot tea on a cool fall morning (or an ice-cold fall morning, if the polar vortex is having its way with you). As such, I turned to Atelier's Oolang Infini to see if it could bring me the feelings of warmth and comfort that a nice tea would.

Photo from Atelier Cologne website

Upon first spray, the opening of Oolang Infini is crisp and fresh, citrusy and bright. For me it was immediately reminiscent of the Twining's Lady Grey iced tea I used to drink on occasion (a blend of black tea, orange, bergamot, lemon and lime), though the tea note may be a bit more demure than the black tea used in Earl or Lady Grey.

I'm not sure if it's a quality of the fragrance or my personal chemistry with it but Oolang Infini was exceptionally soft and light. I actually had to reapply Oolang Infini twice within 15 minutes to maintain any level of scent. There are very few scents of which I could tolerate 6 sprays without massive nausea or headaches, and honestly with this one I could probably tolerate several more still.

After the initial fragrant burst of tea dies down, Oolang Infini's tea notes float lightly above the skin - soapy and clean. The tea notes are, however, marked by a small undercurrent of tannic bitterness that makes the scent feel just a tad medicinal and sharp on me. After an hour or so, that sharpness fades a bit but unfortunately I don't get a lot of the blond leather or wood notes that others seem to enjoy. Perhaps for this reason, Oolang Infini feels cool to me - lacking the warmth or depth of a nice full-bodied tea. Around the three hour mark only the faintest waft of soapiness is discernible with the wrist to the nose - even after 6 sprays. Surprisingly though, that faint waft was still detectable by the next morning.

Although it evokes more of an Earl or Lady Grey tea feeling for me than Oolong - Oolang Infini is definitely a realistic tea scent. It's gentle nature is office appropriate, comfortable for everyday use and very gender neutral. I think it would be quite becoming on a man, but I'll never know because Clint did not care for it in the least.

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Clint's 3: As I noted above, Clint struggled with this one (made a very disgusted face) and really wanted his words to be "I don't like it." I was a bit surprised by his strong and visceral reaction to a scent I found fairly pleasant and quite inoffensive. Nonetheless I forced my wrist upon him repeatedly and he finally came up with:

Citrusy, Soapy, 'Musky'

Musky was my word - Clint didn't have a precise word but said it smells like our dog after she has rolled in something outside and needs a bath. We're not really sure what it is she rolls in. It doesn't smell like dung... but it does reek of dirty animal. Needless to say, I didn't smell it, but everyone's nose is different.

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My rating of Oolang Infini: 3 

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    Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Oolang Infini as described by the Atelier Cologne website:

Oolang Infini, a full-bodied, mysterious concoction, captures blue tea and bergamot in the warmth of smoke and leather.

Top Notes: bergamot from Calabria, Tunisian neroli, freesia

Middle Notes: oolong tea, jasmine from Egypt, blond leather

Base Notes: tobacco flower from the Balkans, gaiac wood from India, musk 

Perfumer: Jerome Epinette

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Have you tried Oolang Infini? What are your favorite tea scents and teas?

Maison Martin Margiela - Replica - Funfair Evening (perfume review)

Growing up in Bonney Lake, Washington, there was one thing every kid did in the town next door. And that was the Puyallup Fair. (Do the Puyallup!) These days it's officially called the Washington State Fair and it draws more than 1 million attendees during its late summer run, making it one of the top 10 fairs in the whole country. I went every year, either performing with the school band or with friends and I still vividly remember the dizzying amount of rides and games and prizes to be won. 

True to it's name, Replica's Funfair Evening (by Maison Martin Margiela) evokes a carefree evening spent at the fair - as an adult - complete with screaming kids frolicking about and that twinge of nausea you experience after one too many funnel cakes or rides.

Upon first spray, Funfair Evening opens up almost brashly with a strong marshmallowy cotton candy vibe that's intensely sweet and powdery. I can't help but picture a puff of the pink stuff. You can almost feel the stickiness on your hands and lips and it's almost sweet enough to turn your stomach - a sign that I'm no longer the kid I used to be.

5 or 10 minutes in, the billowing clouds of cotton candy make way for a slightly sharp but still very sweet vanilla amber. This is like sunset at the game area of the fair. Your stomach is finally settling from the rides and cotton candy, but you're still enjoying a little bit of adrenaline as you try repeatedly to win the most giant stuffed panda in the world.

Within a couple of hours, the sharpness fades away and you're left with a more delicately sweet vanilla caramel. This is the final walk through the fairgrounds and to the car, with the dueling scents of deep fried snickers and powdered funnel cakes lingering on your clothing after a long night at the fair.

All in all, Funfair Evening did not strike me as a particularly complex scent - but I think it is successful in reproducing the "familiar scent" of a night at the fair.  It's intense powdery sweetness makes it feel like a very youthful scent, which may be why it felt a touch too sweet for me in my ripe old age of 31. I could see it being a simple and fun scent on a carefree individual that likes sweet gourmands.

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My rating of Funfair Evening: 2.5

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 Nausea/Gagging           Meh       Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation 

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Replica Funfair Evening as described by the MMM website:

Top notes: Petitgrain, Sweet apple, Pear ester, Star Anise, Neroli

Middle notes: Infusion of Moroccan rose, Tuberose, Infusion of Egyptian orange blossom

Base notes: Ambrox, White musk, Tahitian vanilla, Caramel

Perfumers: Jacques Cavallier, Marie Salamagne

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Have you tried Funfair Evening, or any of the other Replica scents?