Olympic Orchids - Mardi Gras (perfume review)

As promised (to Vanessa in comments), my review of Olympic Orchids Mardi Gras perfume is finally ready. Although I wouldn't consider Mardi Gras particularly complex or challenging on the whole, it is definitely a perfume that pushes my personal boundaries kaos distro, as I tend to like light, easy to wear scents that one might generally associate with spring and summer. Nothing too sweet, loud, screechy, raunchy, dark.. etc. I love the baby food of the perfume world.

Fortunately I was lucky enough to win some Mardi Gras and expand my comfort zone. Although this is a pretty linear scent with little in the way of evolution, it's definitely an interesting one. It's fruitily sweet, warm and just a touch skanky - in the best post-coital kind of way.

While most scents garner associations or ideas, very few paint vivid pictures for me. Mardi Gras, however, is one of those special few. When I wear it, I feel immediately transported to another world - a mysteriously dark and sensual one. Perhaps the name helps. :)

I get a dimly lit room in the French Quarter, adorned with opulent crystal chandeliers and loveseats upholstered in silky dark velvets, tinged with mustiness. The room is humid, saturated with the heat of intertwined lovers and the thick sultry air is lightly sweetened by a veil of fruity incense. And beignets. Definitely some beignets.

photo from French Quarter Guest Houses

The first thing I notice when I apply Mardi Gras is the orange blossom. The very first seconds have a spicy edge, but that kick softens quickly into a fluffily and plushly sweet orange blossom that's reminiscent of fruit loops and powdered sugar. On the side there's a touch of honey. Normally honey is a note that I don't deal well with in perfume (it typically induces feelings of nausea), but in Mardi Gras the syrupy honey blends so seamlessly into the fruity sweetness that I actually don't mind it. In fact, more than don't mind it, I rather like it - and that's a first. 

Also to note, despite describing the sweetness with images of fruit loops and powdered sugar, Mardi Gras isn't a particularly light fragrance. It carries a certain heft to it, like the weight of thick, humid grosir kaos distro summer air.

After a short while the initial burst of fruit loop sweetness fades a bit, and the creamier vanilla and benzoin heart comes out to play. While still sweet, the vanilla and benzoin add a darkness to the composition, luring us out of kiddy land and into the adult realms. Finally the musk emerges, wrapping the fragrance in the warmth of human skin - without ever being overbearing or reeking of B.O. (I know some people appreciate the BO stink factor in their fragrances, but that is a taste I personally have yet to acquire!)

Mardi Gras is a sweet, gourmandy lover, but not a promiscuous one. If you like a heavy dose of skanky musk, I think Mardi Gras may fall short of your desires. But if you want a fairly safe and wearable scent that will still get the juices of your imagination flowing, Mardi Gras may be a good fit.

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My rating of Mardi Gras: 3.75

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  - X -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent          Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Mardi Gras as described by the Olympic Orchids website:

Notes:  Orange blossom, neroli, cistus, benzoin, vanilla, civet, special musk blend

Perfumer: Ellen Covey

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Have you tried Mardi Gras? What are some of your favorite Olympic Orchids scents?

Dame Perfumery Scottsdale - Black Flower Mexican Vanilla (perfume review)

Heeeeellllllllllloooooooooo! Just in case you've forgotten, my name is Sun and I like perfume :)

It's been forever, and I am so sad that it has taken so long to get another post up. Between some new in-progress DIY home renovations (they'll eventually get published at rustyfarmhouse), Clint's awful work schedule and my wonderful baby that hates sleeping (unless I'm lying next to him, that is), I've barely had time to try any new perfumes attentively, let alone write about them.

But, I wanted to get a review of this one in before the spring fully hits and this recent wave of cooler weather has been a perfect time to wear Black Flower Mexican Vanilla (hereafter referred to as BFMV) again.

photo from Dame Perfumery Scottsdale,
artistry by Jeffrey Dame's father V. Dave Dame.

While there's probably hundreds of vanilla scents I've yet to try - so far BFMV is one of my favorites. It's a little bit foody without being sickly sweet or reminiscent of cake, cookies, frosting or ice cream. Ultimately it's vanilla - all grown up.

The opening is big and plush, like a cumulous cloud of dark, rich vanilla. Some slightly sharp citrus elements (I smell mostly grapefruit) cut through the cloud like bolts of lightning, but they're wrapped in the spicy warmth of nutmeg which keeps them from being overwhelming and gives BFMV a really unique character.

The strength of the vanilla tones down a bit in the heart, and this provides room for the florals to peek through. They're not strong and I personally couldn't identify the floral notes as gardenia and jasmine, but they are lovely. If I *really* sniff hard, there's a tiny bit of soapiness for me. The florals are slowly replaced by sandalwood in the early dry down, which makes the composition begin to feel lighter, like replacing a thick wool scarf with a cashmere scarf. 

Later in the drydown there's a lightly chewy, black licorice-y note. Usually I hate black licorice, but here it seems to just add texture to the vanilla rather than scent or overpower it, so I don't mind. The black licorice note reminds me a little bit of Un Bois Vanille, but BFMV isn't nearly as sweet.

And then there's the super late drydown. This part of BFMV is completely awesome in it's own right. Though the earlier stages of BFMV aren't super gourmandy on me, the late drydown smells like hot cocoa and s'mores. A touch of cocoa, a touch of vanilla, a little powdery graham cracker... Yum. It's the first time BFMV presents as sweet - but not overly so. I probably couldn't handle a strong overtly s'more from-the-get-go scent, but in the soft drydown, it's perfect. And it is enjoyable for a long time because the longevity of BFMV is really great - it lasts at least 24 hours on my skin. 

BFMV has usurped Eau Duelle to land in my top 3 favorite vanilla scents (along with Vanille Galante and Orchidee Vanille). Some may be able to wear BFMV year round, however vanilla (in general) feels a little heavy for me when the temps are up. As such, I think Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is especially wonderful on chilly fall/winter days. 

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My rating of Black Flower Mexican Vanilla: 4

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   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Black Flower Mexican Vanilla as described by the Dame Perfumery website:  "The composition is vanilla absolute with touches of lemon, grapefruit, caramel, nutmeg, gardenia, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, musk and tonka - but the ingredient list is less important than the final blend. " 

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Have you tried Black Flower Mexican Vanilla or any other Dame Perfumery scents?


*sample of BFMV originally obtained through Olfactif, but I also received a sampler set from the perfumer himself, Jeffrey Dame. Like all of my reviews, the review of BFMV was objective and unbiased, however I feel compelled to mention how sweet and generous Jeffrey is. His passion is truly to share perfume with the world. Very very reasonably priced samples and bottles are available at his website, and he has a free postcard sample program as well.

A Lab on Fire - What We Do in Paris is Secret (perfume review) + a kitty story.

I hope everyone had a lovely Valentine's Day! Mine was a little rough for a couple of kitty-related reasons, but the biggest one was related to Puff (the other I'll save for another post someday). 

Puff, my purely indoor kitty, stealthily escaped the house (unbeknownst to us) on one of our 2 trips out, and remained missing for at least 5 or 6 hours, if not more. In fact, we only realized he was gone because we bought a new cat condo and he didn't come out when we were rounding the kitties up to show them. After searching the house up and down for an hour or two we conceded to the idea that he must have gotten out. We searched the yard, drove around the neighborhood, posted signs, and visited the neighbors with no luck. All the while I watched the snow fall. I fretted, wondering how I was going to see a white cat in the snow, and worried about the falling temperatures - yesterday's low was supposed to be 5 and the wind has been howling all winter. (To be fair, Puff is built like an arctic kitty - covered in fur with tufted paws, so I was thankful for that.) Then I watched it get dark, wondering how I would see Puff in the dark. Every 20 minutes or so I went around to all of our doors and stepped out, calling out for Puff and shaking a treat bag, hoping he would come out. Finally, on my rounds around 7:30pm, I heard the faintest sound and I wasn't sure if it was a kitty or the children playing in the snow around the neighborhood but repeated callings revealed the tiniest of muffled meows, and I searched around the back deck where I found Puff huddled between storage baskets and the house siding. He wasn't there earlier, so I guess perhaps he had heard me calling and found his way back. Fortunately, he was found - a little dirty and hungry but safe and in my arms. So, today's review is dedicated to my sweet sweet Puff! 

I've been wanting to try A Lab on Fire's What We Do in Paris is Secret since early in my perfuming days (which admittedly was only a five or so months ago). I think I was mostly drawn to it by the name. I've never been to Paris, and even if I had, I doubt I would be privy to the exclusive or secretive happenings that I imagine when I hear this name. I had no idea what to expect, but I honestly didn't expect a sweet gourmand. I also didn't expect to be trying SO MANY gourmands. I guess that's what I get for not looking at the notes!

When I first applied What We Do in Paris is Secret, I was struck by how familiar it smells. Soooooo very familiar! It reminds me of something that was popular and prevalent back when I was in junior or senior high school or so, but unfortunately I can't place it.  CK in2u? Hugo Boss? Hugo Boss Deep Red?  Whatever Jean Paul Gaultier I had?  GAH it's so frustrating! If anyone can enlighten me, I'd be ever so appreciative...

The very beginning of What We Do in Paris is Secret feels really plush but light, like a large dollop of thick whipped cream or vanilla mousse. Or a Puff.

fluffy Puff - a sweet gourmand kitty if there ever was one!
p.s. he has lost weight since I transitioned the kitties to a raw diet, so he's actually quite svelte now.

It's voluminous, it's honeyed, and it has the presence of a whole table of desserts. And then, for a few brief moments the thick gourmand recedes like an ocean wave, unveiling a light and delicate almond that is so singular and crystalline and pure it feels like a ray of sunshine bursting through the clouds. Then the gourmand cloud returns, bringing with it a tinge of sharpness. For some reason, this sharpness makes What We Do in Paris is Secret feel a bit masculine to me. (It's also what makes it smell so darn familiar...)

The drydown is a deep vanilla with a touch of salt, a speck of sharpness and a tinge of rubber. It reminds me a bit of the drydown of Havana Vanille/Vanille Absolument. It's warm and inviting, and I could see What We Do in Paris is Secret being another winter time winner.

Although I didn't love this one the first time I wore it, it has grown on me a bit with repeated wearings. It's a sweet gourmand that I can actually handle (a stark contrast to Or du Serail, for instance). I especially love the almond note - it reminds me a lot of L'Occitane Almond Supple Skin Oil, which also smells lovely. 

Overall, What We Do in Paris is Secret is a pleasantly rich gourmand, but for me it skews a bit too masculine and is still a touch sweet for my tastes. Perhaps its the honey. Maybe I'm just not a big fan of honey as a note... Nonetheless, if you're a fan of honey and vanilla and sweet gourmands, this could be a home run for you!

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Clint's 3: vanilla, cream, light

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My rating of What We Do in Paris is Secret: 3 

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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What We Do in Paris is Secret as described by the A Lab on Fire website:

Family: Gourmand, Oriental

Top Notes: bergamot, honey, lychee

Middle Notes: turkish rose essence, vanilla, heliotrope

Base Notes: tonka bean, tolu, sandalwood, ambergris

Perfumer: Dominique Ropion

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Have you tried What We Do in Paris is Secret?  Do you have a favorite A Lab on Fire scent, or a favorite gourmand?

Parfums de Nicolai - Sacrebleu (perfume review)

I feel like I have been completely MIA - it's been a long couple of weeks! The extended and nuclear family has battled several colds and yucky stomach bugs, and somewhere in there I turned 32.  Yep, the big 3-2. :) And though I had fully intended to put several perfumed items on my birthday list, I just never got around to it - and to be honest - there weren't many fragrances that I *really* felt I needed to have. (Still thinking about getting a decant of Gold Leather, though). I guess I'm rather picky, which is delightful for my wallet but disappointing at the same time. 

But finally we're all feeling a bit better and I've resumed the search for some perfume loves. I'm turning attention back to my pile of samples that remained neglected while the family was under the weather. Yay!

I suppose it's not super helpful to review fragrances that are discontinued - but unfortunately I only have a sample of the discontinued Sacrebleu, and none of Sacrebleu Intense which is still currently available. I am curious how they differ.

On me, Sacrebleu opens up with a thick, syrupy sweet orange with an undercurrent of spice and maybe even a touch of anise. Alongside the sweet fruity melange, there is a thick and sweet almondy vanilla aura which gives it a slightly gourmand quality.  On me, however, there is an artificiality to the rich sweetness that lends it a little bit of a rubbery plastic vibe a few minutes into the opening. Overall, Sacrebleu feels plush and enveloping, and in my mind, distinctly golden orange in hue. Wearing it feels as if you're curled up in this chair on a chilly day.

photo from Horchow

After 10 minutes or so, the white floral heart sneaks out, but honestly the components are so well blended that its hard to separate them or sense when they're really beginning or ending. The florals are sweet and buttery, which is a very natural continuation of the sweetness of the opening, though at this point the sweetness isn't as thick or syrupy. The cinnamon lays low in the composition, but partners with the carnation to give the scent a spicy kick.

The early dry down features a slightly sweet and slightly musky amber. Honestly, I'm not that big of a fan of this kind of amber (it's growing on me a little bit), so it's not really my thing. However, an hour or so later into the wear, the amber is accompanied by darker notes of incense, and I really enjoy this part of the dry down. The incense counterbalances the sweetness of the amber and together, the scent is extremely pleasant and comforting.

For me, the opening is a bit too sweet and heavy, which detracts from my enjoyment. I'm starting to realize that gourmandy sweetness is something I'm pretty sensitive to, and often experience headaches or nausea from it. Sacrebleu was shy of being nauseating or headache inducing, but still a bit much for me. I suspect that for others it would be a lovely, comfy, enveloping oriental vanilla. The mid to late stages of Sacrebleu are really lovely, especially (I'd think) if you're a fan of amber. Although this one isn't FB worthy for me, Sacrebleu strikes me as a lovely, well-done perfume that I could envision many enjoying.

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Clint's 3: spicy, bubble gum, cinnamon

Sometimes I am so impressed by Clint's nose!  A review of Sacrebleu on Perfume Posse also noted a 'juicy fruit' note - so Clint is in good company!

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My rating of Sacrebleu: 3.25 

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  - X -  -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

      Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent          Great         Olfactory Elation      

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Sacrebleu as formally described by the Parfums de Nicolai website:

Family: Oriental Vanilla

Top Notes:  mandarin, red fruits

Middle Notes: carnation, tuberose, jasmine, cinnamon oil

Base Notes: frankincense, patchouli, sandalwood, peru balsam, tonka absolute

Perfumer: Patricia de Nicolai

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Have you tried Sacrebleu, or its remaining successor Sacrebleu Intense? How do they differ? Do you like them?

Montale - Aoud Velvet (perfume review)

Taking a break from the search for a Serge, I start my birthday week with a review of Montale's Aoud Velvet. This is my first experience with a Montale, and I only came across this sample because it was included in January's Olfactif set.

The opening of Aoud Velvet is tingly sharp, tart and sweet, like a mixture of deep cranberry and camphor. After a moment the sharpness recedes a bit, but the perfume maintains an energetic spicy kick. To me, the tartness and spiciness of the opening give Aoud Velvet a slightly fruity, jammy feeling. In that respect, Aoud Velvet it reminds me a bit of plum in Gold Leather (though I should really test them side by side to see if their scents are as comparable as their auras).

But be not deceived as the superstars of Aoud Velvet are not fruits but flowers. Ylang-ylang, tiare and orange blossom, according to the notes. Together, they're bright, creamy, sweet and lush. Anyone could expect that they would smell good together, and naturally they do. But in this case, it's really the oud that adds an entirely new dimension of beauty to these flowers. The spiciness of the oud cuts through their sweetness and turns an otherwise tropical floral into a dark, sensual and intoxicating perfume. 

When I take care to sniff my wrist closely, I can pick out the band-aidy oud note. Though my previous experience with oud wasn't the finest (I surmised at that point that I might hate oud, actually) - I can say with assurance that this oud *isn't* overwhelming within the context of the perfume. The medicinal sharpness of the oud acts as mediator between the sweet, tropical florals and the dry woody and vanilla base, and the whole concoction has a rich, balsamic feel without being too heavy. In the early stages, Aoud Velvet caresses the body like a cool, purple silk rather than a velvet.

photo stolen from a highly interesting (and inappropriate) post on unclerooney.com

For the most part, Aoud Velvet doesn't change a lot over the course of the wear.  However, between one and two hours in, the flowers lose some of their sweetness, and the oud loses a bit of its tartness. The wood notes and vanilla become slightly more prominent and Aoud Velvet becomes creamier - more reminiscent of the 'velvet' in the name.

I found that I really liked Aoud Velvet - there's just something about that spicy floral that keeps me coming back for more. For me, this is probably decant/FB worthy. If you're a lover of oud, and you want the oud to be a strong and prominent note, I think you may be disappointed with Aoud Velvet - but if you like florals with a spicy twist, you might really like it!

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Clint's 3: Sharp, Floral, Spicy

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My rating of Montale Aoud Velvet: 4

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Aoud Velvet as described by fragrantica:

Top Notes: Ylang-ylang, Orange Blossom, Tiare

Middle Notes: Oud (agarwood)

Base Notes: Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Mysore Sandalwood

Family: Floral / Woody (my choices)


Perfumer: Pierre Montale

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Have you tried Aoud Velvet? Do you have any favorite Montale scents, or favorite oud-focused fragrances?

Serge Lutens - Un Bois Vanille (perfume review)

I'm continuing my quest to find some Serge Lutens that work for me. I have several samples in the queue - Chergui, Daim Blond, La Fille de Berlin, De Profundis - but today we focus on Un Bois Vanille.

Un Bois Vanille is interesting in that its a collection of dichotomies. It opens up with the intense sugary sweetness of cotton candy, but rather than being light and airy, it possesses a rich creamy character akin to melting ice cream. But within the depths of the sweet, dark vanilla creme lurks a sharpness I associate with grosir tas import murah sandalwood. The bold, desserty sweetness is grounded ever so slightly by this sharpness, and there's a mild bitterness thats reminiscent of raw cocoa - in a vanilla perfume.

There's also a really faint undercurrent of black licorice, which feels a bit chewy. But it's really faint. Personally I hate anise and black licorice and it doesn't bother me at all in Un Bois Vanille. It's tempered well by the (minimally perceptible but) rich coconut milk. Clint also hates black licorice, and he didn't notice it at all.

Un Bois Vanille is definitely gourmandy, but I don't get sugar cookies or booze or cupcakes or frosting. Un Bois Vanille is basically the perfume version of creme brulee - it's warm, it's dense, it's crusted caramelized sugar over heavy, thick, custardy creams. Yeah, it's vanilla, but the vanilla is almost the backstory. 

Up close and personal with creme brulee.

Un Bois Vanille is probably the most pleasant Serge Lutens I've tried so far, and I can see why many people love it. Unfortunately for me, it triggers a particularly strong scent association that I just can't get past. I may be the only person in the world that feels this way, but for me the grosir tas batam sweet vanilla + sharp wood combination smells strikingly similar to the air freshener (cleaner??) used in many public restrooms. I mean, it's nearly identical in scent and in character. Un Bois Vanille is sweet, thick and heavy, just like that air freshener (which is understandably necessary to mask certain odors!).

Fortunately, the sweetness and heft of Un Bois Vanille backs down around the 2-3 hour mark, ridding it of the bathroom air freshener association. With the sweetness turned down, the vanilla actually takes on more of an extract feel than a dessert feel, and the drydown becomes slightly velvety and powdery on my skin. The drydown is definitely my favorite part of Un Bois Vanille.

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Clint's 3: Creamy, Chocolate, Pleasant

Clint really liked this one. He tends to like the vanillas, it seems.

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My rating of Un Bois Vanille: 3

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    Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Un Bois Vanille as described by the Aedes website:

Family: Oriental/Gourmand

Top Notes:  Vanilla, Sandalwood

Middle Notes: Licorice

Base Notes: Coconut milk

Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake

lucky scent actually lists a longer set of notes: Black vanilla absolute, licorice, sandalwood, coconut milk, beeswax, caramelized benzoin, bitter almond, Gaiac wood, tonka bean

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Have you tried Un Bois Vanille? Is it one of your favorite vanillas?

Naomi Goodsir - Or du Sérail (perfume review)

When you're new to perfume and you don't know what you like and dislike, its easy to fall into the trap of wanting everything you read about. Especially when it seems like everyone and their mom adores it. It's so so easy to do.

Such was the case with Or du Sérail. I was taken by its evocative reviews and intriguing notes and descriptors - golden tobacco, velvet-like, charmingly sensuous... (to be fair, I'm obsessed with the idea that I'd love a tobacco perfume, though I'm not sure if that is really true). It really sounded exotic and amazing.

Alas, you live and you learn. Hopefully. (I have learned, for instance, that I really can't do sweet gourmands.)

Or du Sérail is, in one word, overwhelming. It's a rich, syrupy concoction that's heavy and sickeningly sweet. It's as dense as Christmas fruitcake, with the sting of the rum that it's soaked in. 

In my opinion Or du Sérail defines the term 'cloying.' The first hour or two also possess a knife-life sharpness that clings to my nostrils and burns them. I can feel Or du Sérail in my throat and it even makes my eyes water. Unfortunately it is also very headache inducing. In all honesty, I can barely even sniff my wrist during the first hour.

But even without sniffing my wrist, I feel suffocated by the opening of this scent. I'm drowning in a red river of assorted molten lollipops - cherry, apple, cranberry, strawberry. It's thick, hot and sticky. I finally reach the river's edge only to fall captive to an almost coconutty vanilla quicksand, sinking ever deeper...

Imagine this is red molten lollipops instead of chocolate!

A little over an hour into the wear the strength of Or du Sérail dies down and I'm able to sniff my wrist with relative safety and comfort. It's still terribly sweet, but there's so much going on that the only thing I can really pick out is the amber.

The sugar tones down and the next couple hours of the drydown are tolerable, though *still* a bit too sweet for me. At this point, around 3-4 hours, Or du Sérail is far less fruity but far more decadent. The fragrance is centered around a heavy tobacco note over honeyed vanilla, chocolate and amber. 

At 6-ish hours into the wear, the sweetness of Or du Sérail becomes softer still. The vanilla phases out and the character of the fragrance is dominated by the wood notes, which lay gently under scattered tobacco leaves. At this point Or du Sérail is almost a skin scent. It is dry, lightly sweet, only mildly perceptible, and I finally find it quite pleasant.

For me, obviously, Or du Sérail is too much. (Dabbed on, at that.) While I do enjoy the very end of the drydown, the tongue-curling sweetness of the opening and the rich decadence of the middle make Or du Sérail a bit of an olfactory challenge. But I am somewhat scent sensitive, so this clearly wasn't a good pick for me. Nonetheless, you may want to give Or du Sérail a try if you like bold, fruity, boozy gourmands or tobacco scents.

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Clint's 3: Fruity, Bitter, Sharp

Sums it up nicely.

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My rating of Or du Serail: 1.5 

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      Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Or du Serail as described by the Peony Melbourne website:

Family: Dry Woods/Rich

Top Notes: Cistus, Apple and red fruits, Mango, Rum, Sweet Orange, Davana, Sage
Middle Notes: Beeswax, Coco, Geranium, Ylang-ylang, Turkish Tobacco, Amber
Base Notes: Labdanum, Oak Tree, Cedarwood, Musk, Vanilla, Maté

Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour

For some other (more positive) takes on Or du Sérail, check out the following great reviews: Kafkaesque, AustralianPerfumeJunkies, NST, CaFleureBon 

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What do you think of Or du Sérail? Do you have a favorite Duchaufour fragrance?

*sample purchased by me

CB I Hate Perfume - 406, Do Not Ask Me Why (perfume review)

Do Not Ask Me Why, #406 in the Metamorphosis series (hereafter referred to as 406) is meant to evoke the perfumer Christopher Brosius' idea of 0pium smoke, inspired by the writings of poet Charles Baudelaire. Unfortunately (fortunately?) I've never smelled the smoke of opium, so I cannot attest to the realism of this scent. What I can say, however, is that I am truly curious now about the deliriously narcotic smell of opium smoke...

Speaking figuratively, 406 feels a bit hazy, dry and white - I would liken it to the muted light grey sky of a cold midwinter day. 

Photo of Baltimore city, taken in February 2010.

Speaking more literally, the opening of 406 is a light and pretty floral (indeterminate florals to me) - it's delicately sweet, wispy and airy, and smells like it is grounded by just the tiniest touch of tea. It feels surprisingly dry for a floral and in that way it's a good emulation of smoke. At this point it feels like a floral version of Atelier Cologne's Oolang Infini.

About 20 minutes into the wear, 406 starts to feel noticeably fuller and heavier, and the scent grows stronger on my skin. On top of the florals a strangely clean but thick smoke facet emerges, intertwined with the gentlest tobacco note. It smells of incense, the plumes of smoke rising up off of my wrist.

But really to be perfectly honest, at this point 406 smells unmistakably like Pond's Cold Cream on my skin. It's a pleasant smell that evokes distant memories of my mother and her nightly face ritual, which I would watch as a young child. 406 stays like this on my skin for several hours, probably 5 or 6.

Beyond 6 or 7 hours into the wear, the very last lingering note of 406 is the subtle tobacco - the delicate sweetness of freshly packed cigarettes. I love this smell and only wish that it was stronger throughout the rest of the wear.

Perhaps because of the association with Cold Cream, 406 never feels particularly warm to me, though for all intents and purposes it really *should*.  It's a lightly smoky, floral incense with the cushy thickness of a scarf you would wrap yourself in. In this way, it's a perfect winter scent.

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Clint's 3: Sharp, Chalk, Light

I think the initial florals were what registered as sharp to Clint - the opening was so singularly floral I can understand where he's coming from.  Chalk was also really interesting, I think Clint was honing in on the texture/dryness of chalk more than the actual smell, but I could be wrong.

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My rating of Do Not Ask Me Why: 3.5

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  - X -  -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent          Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Do Not Ask Me Why as described by the CB I Hate Perfume website:

"An interpretation of the smell of opium smoke. heady and hypnotic with a distinctive floral note wafting seductively over a deep dry slightly spicy smoke."

Notes: None are listed, though Surrender to Chance lists: vanilla, smoke, floral

Perfumer: Christopher Brosius

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Have you tried Do Not Ask Me Why? If so, what were your thoughts on it? Do you have a favorite CB I Hate Perfume scent?

*sample purchased by me.

Diptyque - Eau Duelle Eau de Toilette (perfume review)

When I casually tested Eau Duelle on a paper strip, I had no idea what kind of scent it was and was struck by how quickly I was drawn in. Sensitive to scent, I never imagined I would like a vanilla which screamed sweet and cloying. I immediately purchased a sample. 

Upon first spritz, Eau Duelle immerses you in vast and expansive vanilla, like a heavy fog over the ocean at dawn. From within the depths of this boundless vanilla a playful and sparkly juniper note dances like the bubbly fizz of a gin and tonic. Strangely, a concentrated sniff of my wrist imparts only the light citrusy juniper, but when I take a step back, the clouds of vanilla swirl about me and the whole becomes creamier and reminiscent of the delectable Licor 43. Finally, the citrus notes deepen and combine with the emerging spice and black tea notes, producing an Earl Grey tea accord before gently fading into the distance.

The heart of Eau Duelle features a lovely dry vanilla peppered with spices. Frankincense and cardamom elicit a warm and smoky incense which beautifully tempers the sweetness of the vanilla - like cinnamon and chili to hot cocoa. In the early dry down, as Eau Duelle melds into my skin, the sillage actually becomes stronger and I feel engulfed in its dark and spicy richness. At this point the perfume feels thick and for me straddles the line of overbearing - but I am particularly sensitive to scent and this only lasts for about an hour.

After several hours, Eau Duelle softens and lightens considerably. The spices mellow and the final stages of the drydown are subtly sweet and smooth - similar to the Licor 43 phase but this time swirled with heavy cream. The vanilla begins to slightly veer toward rubbery, and as Eau Duelle wafts around me, I imagine that I'm in an inner tube gently floating along a lazy river of cream soda. A delicious and relaxing end to a day-long journey through several fine beverages.

Though an EdT, Eau Duelle lasted through whole day and was still detectable in the morning with just 1 spritz. I'm curious how the solid perfume version compares in sillage and strength.

I'd definitely recommend trying Eau Duelle if you're a fan of vanilla.

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Clint's 3: Vanilla, Airy, Sweet

Clint's a fan - he likes the vanilla.

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My rating of Diptyque: 3.75

1  -  - -  -  2  -  -  -  -  3  -  -  - X -  4  -  -  -  -  5

   Nausea/Gagging         Meh        Decent       Great         Olfactory Elation    

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Eau Duelle as described by the Diptyque website:

Family: Spicy  Notes: Vanilla, Spices, Frankincense.

As described (in more detail) by Aedes:

Family: Woody/Gourmand

Top Notes: Cardamom, Pepper, Saffron, Juniper, Cypress, Elemi

Middle Notes: White musk, Hedione, Vanilla

Base Notes: Vetiver, Vanilla, Olibanum

Perfumer: Fabrice Pellegrin

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Have you tried Eau Duelle EdT? I've read that the EdT and EdP formulations are different enough to have their own profiles, so I'm interested to try both. If you've tried both - which do you prefer?